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The following day we do the main tourist attractions in Phnom Penh. We go to the prison (S-21) where the Khmer Rouge held and tortured hundreds of civilians. As we arrive and pile out of the tuk-tuk I am standing face to face with an acid burned beggar. He's well known in front of S-21 because of his horrendous scars and his glazed eye. We are later told that acid attacks, where people surprise their victims and douse their faces with acid on the streets, are somewhat common in Cambodia. We are taken around the prison by a tour guide. The prison was once a school but the Khmer Rouge turned the classrooms into tiny holding cells and torture chambers where people were shackled to the floors and bed frames and starved almost to death. Our tour guide explains that only the final fourteen prisoners were killed on this very site because most were slaughtered at the killing fields. At the end she walks us over to a map of Cambodia and points out where her family members were each killed. Her daughter starved to death and her husband was shot in the killing fields. Photos of the starved deceased stretch across the rooms. A heap of clothing sits at one end of the room as an eerie reminder of many who were lost. It's an extremely grim scene, and one that none of us will forget.
We leave the prison only to see the the acid burned beggar once more. I've gotta hand it to him, the guy's got strategy.
Our tuk-tuk driver takes us to the killing fields next where we go into the small museum of children's clothing and some torture devices as well as a bit more information about the leader of the Khmer Rouge. The killing fields have holes in the grounds that were mass graves. The most bodies found in one grave was about four-hundred. Wooden signs next to a couple of trees reveal that they were used for Khmer Roughe soldiers to hold babies by the feet and smash their heads against the trunk to ensure death. The Magic Tree had speakers hanging from it to play music that masked the groans of the victims. By the end of this day we are sufficiently depressed. We head to lunch at a pizza place and later go out for dessert and drinks near our guesthouse.
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The following morning we pay six dollars to get into a museum that we are less than impressed with. Six dollars is a lot of money in Cambodia. We head to Central Market where we all split off from one another and make our various purchases.
On our last morning we go to a restaurant called Friends. It's a nice little restaurant where they take teenagers off the streets and teach them proper food service. We all love the food as well as the service. It's a bit more expensive than the food we usually eat here in Cambodia, but it's a small price to pay for the benefit of the kids it supports. We rush off to the bus to get back to the orphanage. Everyone is worried that we won't make it, but I assure them that everything always works out and that there is no need to worry. Plus, we all know now that Cambodians run about ten minutes behind on everything and we westerners are operating on normal clocks. We make it, just as I had promised. We take the bumpy ride back home and along the way our tire explodes with a loud bang. It takes about twenty-five minutes and three different stops at multiple rural shacks, for them to fix it. They don't have the proper equipment to fix a tire, so they attempt to fashion a huge piece of iron to loosen the bolts. Finally they replace the blown tire and we move on to Takeo. When we get back it's just as we had left it. Everyone stares at us for being white? CHECK! It's hotter than anywhere in Cambodia? CHECK! People yell "Hello!" constantly? Check! The homeless guy with shredded pants is still crouching on the sidewalk displaying his manhood? CHECK! Yep, this is Takeo.
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